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YAMAHA GRIZZLY 700 CLUTCH WEIGHT INSTALL

61343 Views 59 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  Cuddle_Bear, 
GRIZZLYWIZARD
19
Grizzly 700 Clutch installation

We decided to go with 4 Kodiak weights and 4 660 Grizzly weights. The parts numbers are 5GH-17632-00-00 and 5KM-17632-00-00 respectively. Overall impression is nice low returned back to you if you have switched to over sized or heavier tires. We recommend you to refer to the service manual before trying this install.

(1) Remove (6) (4mm) Allen screws and (4) (10mm) bolts to disconnect and remove right side floorboard from the Grizzly.


(a) Remove the side panel for better access.


(2) Remove (12) (10mm) bolts all the way around your Drive belt cover and remove.


(3) Remove (4) (10mm) bolts from the metal Bearing housing and remove the bearing housing.
* The two longer bolts are located on the front and rear corners of the bearing housing. (Don’t lose the two dowel pins in this section of the take down).


(4) Take the two long bolts from the previous step and insert them in the two holes on the rear pulley / secondary sheave. Tighten and leave them in. This will loosen the CVT belt and allow the primary sheave assembly to slide of easily.


(5) Loosen and remove the 22mm primary sheave nut from the primary clutch shaft.
NOTEYou can use an impact driver for this but we recommend using Yamaha part number 90890-01701 YS-01880-A Sheave holder Primary clutch holder. It is your motor!
NOTE this nut is a standard right-hand thread so turn it Counterclockwise to remove it
NOTE the primary sheave nut has 100 foot pound of torque on it.


(6) Remove the primary pulley sheave assembly.


1.Remove eight small screws and washers from the primary sheave assembly. And remove the primary sheave assembly cap. Take special care at this point as there is an O-ring on the assembly.

2.If you are careful and keep the grease clean you should not need to regrease anything.


(7) Swap the weights out i.e. (Kodiak weight 660 weight) all the way around the assembly.
NOTE: a small amount of grease on each weight will help hold the weights in place.



Re-assembly

1. Install the primary sheave back onto the main clutch shaft taking special care that the splines align on the primary clutch shaft completely. An extra set of hands are very handy at this point to hold the primary sheave in place.

2. Install the 22mm nut and washer and just snug down.

3 Install the primary sheave assembly cap and the 8 phillips head screws and tighten to 2.2 ft. lbs.

4. Hold the primary sheave in place and tighten the 22mm nut to 100 ft. lbs. (Again you can use an impact wrench but we do not recommend this.) NOTE: MAKE SURE THE SHAFT SPLINES ARE COMPLETELY ALIGNED WITH THE PRIMARY CLUTCH SHAFT.

5. Verify the 2 dowels pins are still in place and re-install the bearing housing and tighten the 4 bearing housing bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs.

6. Place bike in park and start the engine. Rev it up several times noting the phasing of the primary sheave and belt.

7. Once satisfied of the proper clutch operation re-install the drive belt cover and tighten the 12 drive belt cover bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs of torque.


8. Re-install the floor board and any additional plastic you may have removed.


Installation Complete!
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M
what im runnin

on my 09 grizzly im runnin 4 stock weights and 4 660 weights. i had 4 660's and 4 kodiaks but it was 2 much. it all depends on what kind of riden your gettn into. by the looks of your pictures it looks like you do more muddin and crawln than anything else. you could try 8 kodiaks which would give you insane bottem end but its gonna be revvin like hell when you get on a straight stretch
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M
mexhusky357 said:
on my 09 grizzly im runnin 4 stock weights and 4 660 weights. i had 4 660's and 4 kodiaks but it was 2 much. it all depends on what kind of riden your gettn into. by the looks of your pictures it looks like you do more muddin and crawln than anything else. you could try 8 kodiaks which would give you insane bottem end but its gonna be revvin like hell when you get on a straight stretch
Click to expand...
lol thats cool... i don't even go over 50 anymore cause it chatters the hell outta yu and the bike lol... and thanks
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M
im runnin 26" mtrs. tire size and weight also plays a pretty big factor. its a very easy job to do and pretty cheap so the best thing to do is get four 660's and 4 kodiaks and do sum experimentn. imo
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BATTLEGUN
And to top it off this is a very easy mod. Some people get pretty intimidated by the CVT transmissions, but in all reality they are easy to tinker with.
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Gunny
I'm gonna throw a monkey wrench in here & see who here thinks I'm on Loco Weed !!! :hello:

A while back when I started read'in all this, I was runn'in 27 inch tires 589's or Dirt Tamers) ..... I installed a Dalton clutch kit, then a little later a Fix Power Sports machined sheave for a Rhino (I ride a 660 Grizz) .... and I was WAY happy.

But after a while, I wanted more low end. And I don't ride real fast much (no comment B-Dub, Grizzlywizard or Battlegun :nono: ) ... and after spending many hours look'in at the roller weight chart B-Dub & others put together .... I decided I'd make some changes to see "what happens".

However, before I got started, a friend of mine with a Rhino, running 26 inch tires, mentioned he had installed an EPI clutch kit for 28 & 29 inch tires .... and he stated he could now pull hills (at the dunes) in 2 wheel drive that use to take 4 wheel drive. :dontknow:

OK ... so now I'm confused ......

Next, I bought a gram scale & started weighing my rollers to compare what rollers I have to what B-Dubs chart reads. And I'll be .... almost gram fer gram, I came up with what the chart reads.

So I decided to try this "Heavy Roller weight" thing & see what happend .... I ordered some 18 gram & 20 gram rollers ...(that's without the nylon shells)

While I was waiting for those to show up, I had the rollers that came with the machined sheave ... I weighted them & with the nylon shells, I came up with 16.1 grams each, for a total weight of approx 128.8 g.
I then took the Grizz out for a ride .... and did not like it one freak'in bit. 8) Yeah, it was quick, but it didn't crawl worth a crap .... and coasted way to much ... for me anyway.

Then the 18 & 20 gram rollers arrived .... installed the 20 g rollers into new nylon shells & they weigh approx 23.2 g each ... for a total weight of 185.6 g.

Not sure what to say other than ... this setup is freak'in awesome !! :icon_thumleft: ... Great good low end, great crawling ability, yet when you stab the throttle ... it leaps away .... I did notice the RPM's where way up there .... I believe at 20 or 22 mph my engine is turning 3800 to 4000 rpm's (depending on if I can hold the throttle steady) (I have a Hardline tach installed)

My next test will be to do some different speed runs & write down the RPMs at 5 mph incerments. I may then put the Dalton rollers back in & do the same thing .... I said may, cause I'm really thinking of trying 22 or 24 g rollers next ... :headbang:

So ... yer comments on my "Seat of the Pants" dyno running ?? ... I've been told, this is totally backwards of what others feel things should work .... but all I know is ... I will never go back to a "Light" weight roller .... Savvy ?? :glasses9:


Later ....
:seesaw:
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M
Hey thanks for all the help got the weights in hope it doesn't matter i use a different kinda of grease then "there" grease

peace
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GRIZZLYWIZARD
The other grease may work. You will need to check it after you run it though to make sure it sticks to the roller weights adequately though.
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P
Gunny, so where are you with weights now?
am i reading this correctly, you went to heavier weights?
what did the heavier weights do? I have a new 2009 700 I put 26x10x12 all the way around with itp 212 on i was disappointed with the loss of performance.
did you change the shims?
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Gunny
Policy Peddler said:
Gunny, so where are you with weights now?
am i reading this correctly, you went to heavier weights?
what did the heavier weights do? I have a new 2009 700 I put 26x10x12 all the way around with itp 212 on i was disappointed with the loss of performance.
did you change the shims?
Click to expand...
Yup, I'm running heavier weights ... with tires. 22.5 grs each. The heavier weights gave "ME", more bottom end, more craw-ability, & better engine breaking. :eek:ccasion14:

As far as performance, the heavier weights WILL hurt top end ... so it's kind of a trade off. :seesaw:



The shim that came with the Fix sheave I've left as is ... meaning, it's still in there. :thumbup:
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BATTLEGUN
So Gunny, do you have quik release pins to take your quad apart yet? Okay, that was a joke, but actually sounds like it may be an option. Hmm
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Gunny
BATTLEGUN said:
So Gunny, do you have quik release pins to take your quad apart yet? Okay, that was a joke, but actually sounds like it may be an option. Hmm
Click to expand...
DAMN !!! ....... that's a GREAT idea Battlegun !! ........ now ya got me think'in :seesaw:
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MaineGrizzlyRider
wow totally lost now.. thought lighter weight was supposed to give you more low end. crawlability but lose top end speed, now you are saying the heavier weights gave you better low end???
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GRIZZLYWIZARD
MaineGrizzlyRider said:
wow totally lost now.. thought lighter weight was supposed to give you more low end. crawlability but lose top end speed, now you are saying the heavier weights gave you better low end???
Click to expand...
Don't worry, I am in the same line as you. I thought the same thing.
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Gunny
That's why it's tough to ask someone what they think about whatever.


The best advice I can give ya is do like I did .... put some light roller weights in ... take it for a ride paying real close attention to how the bike acts. :cheer:


Then go home, swap out the light rollers with some heavier ones ... go for a ride, again, paying real close attention to how the bike acts. :beer"


And then do like some have, & try a third setup of half heavier, half lite weights .... :seesaw:



When I did my testing, I could tell within the first few miles if I liked the rollers I had installed. :eek:ccasion14:


And shoot, it also gives you a heck of a collection of different roller weights :rotfl:
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HAWK88
Rhino 660 Clutch

Rhino 660 Clutch

New Guy Here

I am having difficulty find "How To" Vids on the Centrifugal Clutch & One Way Bearing install. I found this site searching for that.

Thanks!

I (probably foolishly) bought used/cheap (get what''cha pay for?) UTV from a pathological liar and am suffering the consequences now. It looked great, but the Centrifugal Clutch/Housing was burned-up (metal to Metal).

I purchased a complete machined Primary Sheave on-line, and OEM Yammy Centrifugal Clutch & Housing (their proud of those things!). I installed them (I thought) per the Yammy Service Manual, and it pulls ALL the time? It kills the engine when put into gear?

I put the Arrows Facing the Housing and temp installed the Primary Sheave, just to turn the Main shaft, and felt no resistance Clockwise, compared to Lock-Up of the Sprag One Way Counter Clockwise.

Help Please
Jack Phillips
HAWK88
[email protected]
321-426-5243
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GRIZZLYWIZARD
Wow, you have me as to what the problems is. I am not a clutch expert but hopefully someone has had a similar issue and will chime in.
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HAWK88
Wet Clutch & or Primary Sheave Woes

Another member sent me several emails of wet clutch and sheave info, Thanks!

I perused them and now am going out to dissemble and see what I dorked-up.

I'll post my findings, both for advice, and so others may learn.

This Forum is like the V8Cycle Forum, in that the Brotherhood and helpfulness is worth more than the Vehicle!

Thanks again!

Jack
HAWK88..
[email protected]
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E
Wet clutch vs dry clutch

what do I NEED on a 2012 Yamaha 700 grizz the wet clutch cleaned and served OR should I go with the dry clutch system??????
I do mostly trail riding in the mountains I am 67 years old so do not do the wild thing .
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Babbs
Maybe I can solve this.
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Cuddle_Bear
Remove (6) (4mm) Allen screws and (4) (10mm) bolts to disconnect and remove right side floorboard from the Grizzly.
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