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61345 Views 59 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  Cuddle_Bear
Grizzly 700 Clutch installation

We decided to go with 4 Kodiak weights and 4 660 Grizzly weights. The parts numbers are 5GH-17632-00-00 and 5KM-17632-00-00 respectively. Overall impression is nice low returned back to you if you have switched to over sized or heavier tires. We recommend you to refer to the service manual before trying this install.

(1) Remove (6) (4mm) Allen screws and (4) (10mm) bolts to disconnect and remove right side floorboard from the Grizzly.

(a) Remove the side panel for better access.

(2) Remove (12) (10mm) bolts all the way around your Drive belt cover and remove.

(3) Remove (4) (10mm) bolts from the metal Bearing housing and remove the bearing housing.
* The two longer bolts are located on the front and rear corners of the bearing housing. (Don’t lose the two dowel pins in this section of the take down).

(4) Take the two long bolts from the previous step and insert them in the two holes on the rear pulley / secondary sheave. Tighten and leave them in. This will loosen the CVT belt and allow the primary sheave assembly to slide of easily.

(5) Loosen and remove the 22mm primary sheave nut from the primary clutch shaft.
NOTEYou can use an impact driver for this but we recommend using Yamaha part number 90890-01701 YS-01880-A Sheave holder Primary clutch holder. It is your motor!
NOTE this nut is a standard right-hand thread so turn it Counterclockwise to remove it
NOTE the primary sheave nut has 100 foot pound of torque on it.

(6) Remove the primary pulley sheave assembly.

1.Remove eight small screws and washers from the primary sheave assembly. And remove the primary sheave assembly cap. Take special care at this point as there is an O-ring on the assembly.

2.If you are careful and keep the grease clean you should not need to regrease anything.

(7) Swap the weights out i.e. (Kodiak weight 660 weight) all the way around the assembly.
NOTE: a small amount of grease on each weight will help hold the weights in place.


1. Install the primary sheave back onto the main clutch shaft taking special care that the splines align on the primary clutch shaft completely. An extra set of hands are very handy at this point to hold the primary sheave in place.

2. Install the 22mm nut and washer and just snug down.

3 Install the primary sheave assembly cap and the 8 phillips head screws and tighten to 2.2 ft. lbs.

4. Hold the primary sheave in place and tighten the 22mm nut to 100 ft. lbs. (Again you can use an impact wrench but we do not recommend this.) NOTE: MAKE SURE THE SHAFT SPLINES ARE COMPLETELY ALIGNED WITH THE PRIMARY CLUTCH SHAFT.

5. Verify the 2 dowels pins are still in place and re-install the bearing housing and tighten the 4 bearing housing bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs.

6. Place bike in park and start the engine. Rev it up several times noting the phasing of the primary sheave and belt.

7. Once satisfied of the proper clutch operation re-install the drive belt cover and tighten the 12 drive belt cover bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs of torque.

8. Re-install the floor board and any additional plastic you may have removed.

Installation Complete!
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What about this statement from Gary:

NOTEYou can use an impact driver for this but we recommend using Yamaha part number 90890-01701 YS-01880-A Sheave holder Primary clutch holder. It is your motor!
Well that's gonna kinda depend on you as I'm not familiar with your mechanical abilities. If your someone that is more prone to break things by overtightening, then go with what he said and a torque wrench. If you're more careful, go with an impact and hand hold the primary.

We've been doing many clutch pulls when playing with these weights and have not used a clutch holder. Consider the age of the original post and the person it is geared towards, the mechanically uninclined. If using an impact wrench, then you can hold the clutch with your hand to tighten it. If using a torque wrench, you'll need to find some method of holding the primary from turning. We've not foudn a good way to do this personally but other have mentioned wrapping the primary with a ratchet strap and fastening it to the frame so it can't turn. I tried this once and it was more trouble than it was worth to me at the time and I grabbed my impact as I've used it enough to know when and when I'm not gonna break something.

DISCLAIMER: The recommended procedure by Yamaha is the holder tool and a torque wrench. If you attempt it with an impact wrench (as most folks do successfully) and you break something, then you have not followed the procedure recommended by Yamaha and YOU are responsible for your actions, not us.

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hey I can use these steps to repalce my grizzly 660 Weights with the Dalton kit correct? Shouldn't it be the same methods?
I don't have a impact wrench so I have to use a torque wrench. I found the clutch holder on line for like 35.00 bucks..
Yes, the steps are the same so give it a whirl. It you run into something you can't figure out, post back and we'll help you through it.

The process is actually much easier than it appears or sounds.

tec said:
the 4 bolts that hold the bearing housing on. i did manage to get it off. i noticed that i have a little bit of play on the primary clutch shaft. is this normal??? if not what do i need to do?

I talked to a Yamaha tech when i had mine apart and he said it was ok. You could move mine just a little, not much.
well I can't find the clutch holding tool online anymore... :-( Any one know where i can get it online? Is there any other way to hold the sheave? Would a strap wrench work.? And I mean a good one, not a cheap aZZ one from the dollar store? oh and one thing, would people on here recommend doing the dalton clutch kit with the weights and the secondary spring, or getting the FIX hole shot kit for the Grizzly 660?
I tried this out on my 2007 Grizzly because it was making a whining noise, after I got this done I tried it out and the whining noise is still there... Anyone have any idea what that could be?

Thanks, Adam.
Can you be more specific on the whining noise?
Also, with the side cover off and the engine running, can you determine if this "whine" is coming from the primary (front) clutch or the secondary (rear)?

Thanks for the fast replies,
I have the whole clutch assembly off the primary, So I tried starting it.. and it is still making the whining noise, does anyone know what is on the other side of the primary?
Thanks, Adam.
Looks like some bearings. See image attached below:
# Description Qty.
1 SKU: 3B4-16611-00-00 CLUTCH HOUSING COMP. 1
2 SKU: 3B4-16620-00-00 CLUTCH CARRIER ASSY 1
3 SKU: 3B4-15163-00-00 HOUSING, BEARING 1 1
4 SKU: 93316-01003-00 BEARING 1
5 SKU: 93102-35004-00 OIL SEAL 1
6 SKU: 99009-80500-00 CIRCLIP 1
7 SKU: 93410-46079-00 CIRCLIP 1
8 SKU: 93315-21813-00 BEARING 1
9 SKU: 93450-24062-00 CIRCLIP 1
10 SKU: 4SH-16664-00-00 BEARING, ONE WAY 1
11 SKU: 90179-22021-00 NUT 1
12 SKU: 3B4-15463-00-00 GASKET, COVER PINION 2 1
13 SKU: 99530-10116-00 PIN, DOWEL 2
14 SKU: 95022-06030-00 BOLT, FLANGE 7
15 SKU: 95022-06040-00 BOLT, FLANGE 2
17 SKU: 93101-35001-00 OIL SEAL 2
18 SKU: 3B4-17632-00-00 WEIGHT 8
19 SKU: 3B4-17623-00-00 CAM 1
20 SKU: 3B4-17653-00-00 SLIDER 4
21 SKU: 3B4-17645-00-00 COLLAR 1
22 SKU: 93211-594A4-00 O-RING 1
23 SKU: 4WV-17639-10-00 STOPPER 1
24 SKU: 90157-04006-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD 8
25 SKU: 90201-047R9-00 WASHER, PLATE 8
26 SKU: 3B4-17641-00-00 V-BELT 1
27 SKU: 3B4-17611-00-00 SHEAVE, PRIMARY FIXED 1
28 SKU: 90201-190T7-00 WASHER, PLATE 1
29 SKU: 90179-16005-00 NUT 1
32 SKU: 93104-41119-00 OIL SEAL 2
33 SKU: 93210-44545-00 O-RING 2
34 SKU: 4CW-17664-00-00 PIN, GUIDE 4
35 SKU: 90501-650A0-00 SPRING, COMPRESSION 1
36 SKU: 4WV-17684-00-00 SEAT, SECONDARY SPRING 1
37 SKU: 4WV-17644-00-00 SEAT, SPRING 1
38 SKU: 90170-36279-00 NUT 1
39 SKU: 90179-16005-00 NUT 1


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I now have the back side of the clutch housing off and on the primary side there looks to be an aluminum cover that may have some other sort of clutch device in it.. Could the whining sound be coming from within there?
Thanks, Adam.
Did you click on my attachment to my previous post. That shows you what's behind that cover.
Do you know how that could of gotten dirty if its in the engine oil?

If it's a bearing, it could simply be one going bad from being defective. Never heard of it on one of these but it could happen. How loud of a whine is this. Are you sure it's coming from the primary and not the secondary.
re installation question

on the re installation it says to put the clutch sheave on the shaft first; tighten down the nut and then install the cover. shouldnt you put the cover back on before you put it back on the shaft?? or it almost seems like you wouldnt have to remove the sheave at all. couldnt you just remove the cover and replace the weights with the sheave on the bike?? just a question i am new to the utility quads and these types of transmissions.
You can really do it either was mexhusky357. I felt it was easier to remove the sheave and cover in case I needed to clean the grease and add fresh grease. I have since done it both ways and still find it easier the to remove the sheave.
whats the best weight combo for more low end power?
From our testing, depending on your quad, we found the best results from either 4 stock weights and 4-660 weights or 4 stock weights and 4 kodiak 450 weights.

From our testing, depending on your quad, we found the best results from either 4 stock weights and 4-660 weights or 4 stock weights and 4 kodiak 450 weights.

it's for a grizzly 700 i need as much low end as i can get from the weights.. im nto allowed to buy a clutch kit yet lol
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