Stoked about my Renegade 800 Airdam clutch setup

Well so far it seems real good. I am going to be drag racing our other identical renegade this weekend that has just the dalton kit in it and really see how much difference it makes. Out of the hole it is much peppier. Where I could previously pop a wheelie on a dry grass area by my house, now when I try, it just blows the back tires out. On asphalt or concrete, it pops a wheelie much easier than before with no body english and me sitting mid-seat. The reason I would previously have had to use body english to pop a wheelie is because I have right at 60lbs of winch mount plate and winch mounted in the front bumper, which is a lot of weight up there.

So, I will know more after the weekend if the rain will get outta town so we can do some testing.

I will post back.

BTW, what kinda quad do you have?

I already had the dalton kit and in the Renegade he has to use at least 3 dalton weights. So, if you don't already have them, I don't know if he will have to sell you some, and they are $60 from can-am, or if he will just change the weight on on your factory weights.

Buster

well to be honest with you, when doing the can-am clutches i prefer using the stock primary and secondary springs. the added spring pressures of the name brand kits actually hurt your upshift speed after my machining because of the surfacing i put on the clutches. the extra stiff springs provide extra clamping force against the belt to keep your belt from slipping in a factory clutch setup. since the clutches are slick as glass the belt will slip excessively with a powerful engine such as most of the can-ams have. so my soloution is by surfacing the primary and secondary to eliminate the belt slip without the need of super stiff springs. if you keep the stiff secondary spring in after my machining and surfacing it will actually hinder your acceleration speeds because the belt cant freely move up and down the sheaves because the stiff secondary spring is holding so much belt tension and slowing the bike down. i had thought about telling you that buster after you got the clutches back. the stiff springs you are running will get you a higher stall rate, but actually slow the upshift down and hurt your acceleration. if you change the secondary spring out to the factory one you will likely pick up some acceleration back and make the bike even faster.

well buster the reason that spring gives you that shiftout is because it is stiff so its making the bike rev super high before the weights in the primary can overcome the spring pressure and close the primary up getting the belt to the top of the primary. the stock softer spring will actually allow you to gain acceleration because it is not as stiff, and the weights can close the primary up faster. the weights have to overcome the spring tension in order to close the primary up. the stiffer the spring, the longer it takes the primary to close up, therefore the longer it takes the belt to get to the top of the primary and the base of the secondary, and the longer your shiftout is which hurts you acceleration. with the stock springs, and the weights done to correct the shiftout the faster your acceleration will be. if you get time put your stock spring in and see what the shiftout is. we may just be able to remove the steel weights i your daltons to get the shiftout right. with the stock springs and the weight right to get you in the 7300RPM range is where you'll get the fastest acceleration, and best performance. also test your top speed. it aught to climb up to 80 and bang the factory rev limiter at around 7500rpm rather than 8100 like it used to. if you get the speed limiter delete you will be able to do upwards of 90mph. see what your top speed in low range is as well and give me some results.


grizzly guy sorry i am not doing polaris clutches. i did a few of them and ran into some problems with their secondaries. the spring rates are not great enough to adequately tension the belt when i get the belt lower in the primary to increase the top speed. as the belt got lower in the secondary the belt would begin to slip causing the belt to fry and blow. the problem could be fixed with a team spring for the secondary but i do not like doing work that is dependant on another part to make the work do its deed correctly. i want to get my work right so that a normal guy can get his clutches done on a stock bike, and without having to add parts, just bolt the clutches back up and go riding. i do not want to incorporate any other parts or brands in with my work in order to make my work do its duty so i just decided against the polaris. they are just not my cup of tea