i finally received my rear inboard cv boot kit today, so i dug into replacing it. from what i had read, it was possible to remove the axles without taking the trailing arm off (which requires a special spanner socket). supposedly, if you unbolt the lower shock mounts, the trailing arms will drop far enough for the axles to clear the differential. i did this, and the right side (when seated) will come out, because it's shorter. however, my left side was torn - murphys law. because it's longer, there's too much bind in both cv joints to allow the trailing arm to drop far enough to remove the axle. i don't have the socket and won't step foot inside my closest can am dealer (that's another story) so i unbolted the diff. i also had to unbolt the caliper to allow the diff to move enough to get the axle out. now that i have the halfshaft off the bike and in the vise comes the 2nd mystery with the replacement. some people say there's a circlip that must be spread open to remove the plunge joint from the shaft, some say it's a locking ring and you must smack it to remove it. well, on the 08 renegade, it's a locking ring. came off after a couple whacks with a ballpeen hammer and a block of wood. removed damaged boot, cleaned out as much of the original grease as i could and put the new boot on, along with the new locking ring that came in the kit. for some reason, driving the plunge joint back on wasn't as easy as getting it off. took about 8 hard shots, broke a couple short 2X4s in the process! :banging: put the new grease in and used needle nose pliers to lock in the pita clamps then put it all back together. tomorrow i plan on cutting a few holes in the airbox lid and installing the frogzskin intake screens. not sure how i wanna block off the factory intake, but i'm sure i'll come up with something. :beer"
Renegade Inboard CV Boot Replacement
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by "fix", are you talking about replacing it?
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lol, yeah - you need to remove the axle in order to separate the outboard joint from the axle shaft. there's no way to slip the new boot over the cv joint. lucky for you it's the right side. make sure you remove the cotter pin and break loose the axle nut (leave it snug) before unbolting the lower shock mounts. i took a few pics if you need any detail...
no problem. i was gonna do the same thing, but it's pretty straightforward. send that earless clamp tool back and get your$$ back - needle nose pliers work fine! :thumbup:
you can see how the right side is coming out more than the left:
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn191/4stangs4/IM001770.jpg
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trailing arms fully dropped:
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn191/4stangs4/IM001773.jpg
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you can see how the right side is coming out more than the left:
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn191/4stangs4/IM001770.jpg
trailing arms fully dropped:
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn191/4stangs4/IM001773.jpg
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2,036 Posts
I think I'll keep the pliers simply because I like tools (no comments please) but they were pretty ridiculiously priced.
Now this begs the question, why couldn't these quads (or any) be designed with a cvt that didn't need so much attention. You know. Like the kind you find on PTO shafts that get the snot worked out of them and all you gotta do is hook up to the grease zirk every now and then to keep the running? Talk about saving some trouble.
Now this begs the question, why couldn't these quads (or any) be designed with a cvt that didn't need so much attention. You know. Like the kind you find on PTO shafts that get the snot worked out of them and all you gotta do is hook up to the grease zirk every now and then to keep the running? Talk about saving some trouble.
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That was a pretty informative write-up Stray. That will come in handy for many others as well.
Thanks!
Buster
Thanks!
Buster
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4,037 Posts
Gotta love it!
thx buster, do you have the ricochet cv guards on project x?
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4,037 Posts
Holy crap! Did the do all 8?:
:No that was for 1. I can't believe it either.. I just spoke to the owner of the shop and he said if i can go in there and do it in under 6 hours he'll pay me $400, but if not I pay him $5000.Holy crap! Did the do all 8?:
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4,037 Posts
Well, I have never changed out an Outy or Gade CV. But typically a CV boot is a CV boot.
I can do it in about two hours. 3 if I am drinking.
I can do it in about two hours. 3 if I am drinking.
that is high, but it really depends on which axle you had done. either side in the front would be the easiest (90 minutes 1st time). rears are a bit more involved, with the left rear being the worst. which did you have replaced? the right side will pop out by just removing the shocks (2 - 2.5 hrs easy, 1st time), i had to unbolt the diff to do the left side since i didn't have the trailing arm socket (2.5 - 3 hrs easy, 1st time). tell him you want $800 merchandise/parts credit if you can do it in under the 5 hrs they charged you. i'll walk you through it a few times and you can get me the 09 intake & filter and still have $650 left.
:thumbup:
:thumbup:
It was the rear right inboard on an Outlander 800 Max...
I read instructions from a few people on how it's done before I spoke to the owner and I'm convinced they're ripping me off..
Going there to collect the bike tomorrow and see what they say in person. I suspect he's trying to bluff me with the offer, but we'll see. I'm still mad as hell about it all. Just looked at my mate's Outlander 650 that's here (without dismantling anything) and I can't see anything too crazy difficult about it.
I read instructions from a few people on how it's done before I spoke to the owner and I'm convinced they're ripping me off..
Going there to collect the bike tomorrow and see what they say in person. I suspect he's trying to bluff me with the offer, but we'll see. I'm still mad as hell about it all. Just looked at my mate's Outlander 650 that's here (without dismantling anything) and I can't see anything too crazy difficult about it.
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