Programer for Grizz 700

Jim, the fuel controller won't get rid of the mid-range miss that the 06 and early 07 Grizzlies had. I THINK Yami may have cleared it up in the late 07's and 08's but can't say for sure.

The mid-range pop is caused by the ignition curve. You can get rid of that in 1 of 2 ways. You can either by a dynatek dynafs ignition box where they have tweaked the ignition curves and also removed that miss or you can buy a Velocity Devices Copperhead ECU. The Dyna is a non-tunable ignition box that retails for 209. you can get them cheaper on eBay. It WILL remove the pop you hear. The Velocity box which is amazing as far as tunability is concerned is $450 but gives you control of the ignition and the fuel. However, based on previous chats with you, you don't really want to get into tuning that much so I doubt the more expensive VDI is what you want.

If I were you and knowing what you want to get rid of, while not have to tweak settings, I would recommend the Dynatek box and steal one from eBay.

Buster

The Dyna ignition offered a good throttle response when used in combination with fuel controller and aftermarket exhaust. Since you have the exhaust system already, are a third of the way way there. The biggest thing you will notice from the Dyna is with the advanced timing curve, the throttle response is a little snappier.

The VDI will kill two birds with one stone though. However, tuning is slightly more complicated and requires some EFI knowledge and patience in order to get it just right.

Both products will give a little more horsepower and acceleration response. If you are looking for neck snapping torque, sorry, it just wont happen unless you go into the motor with a BBK, cam and maybe a stroker.

Now, as a caveat, you already have a HC piston. The VDI will allow you to really fine tune the timing curves and get the most out of the motor whereas the Dyna will not. That being said, now would be the perfect time to throw a Mudbuster cam in their and really get that thing to turn those SB's.

Hell, I know if B-dub owned it, it isn't even broke in yet. ;;s;;

While the VDI is a very nice all-in-one unit with a LOT of adjustment possibilities, I agree with GW that it will take some knowledge to do the programming on it and the use of a Dyno as well to get it right. Don't get me wrong in that I think the VDI box is amazing in the build quality, tunability and concept. But I'm not sure that for someone wanting to tweak fuel, that it is the product for everyone. But, hands down it is the best unit on the market IMO if you plan to tune it and have the skills to do so.

A fuel controller like a Dobeck or Power Commander offers you buttons to just increase or decrease fuel levels at certain parts of the fuel curve, it may be much easier for a novice turner that doesn't have a dyno readily avalable for tuning. Taking the route of a Dobeck of Power Commander and a DynaFS ignition box may be the best thing for YOUR situation. That's just my opinion.

To help you better understand the interface of the VDI box, I've attached two images. One of them if the main screen when you open the software that gives you the ability to change cranking pulses of the ECU, fuel delivery at different RPMs during warm-up and many other things. The other page is the page where the actual fuel delivery is configured. Although I didn't display it all, the top row of that page goes all the way over to 7000 RPMS. The left side headings are injector map pressures. So, starting with a base of 0, for your setup, you can add or remove fuel by putting positive or negative numbers in those blocks for a certain RPM and map pressure area. If for example you were running rich at idle, you could pull fuel off by putting a -1 in map 45 and RPM 1500-1800 depending on where your quad is set to idle. Map 45 is what is being used at dea idle whereas map 100 is being used at wide open throttle. However, since you won't be using a map 100 at 1500 RPMs, the trick in tuning comes in determing which map to adjust at which RPM level based on how your running. If you are gradually accelerating and need to adjust say the 3500 RPM area, you may be using a map of 75 and need to adjust there. But, if you're rolling into the gas hard and need to adjust at 3500 RPMs, you may need to adjust map level 80 or 85 for the 3500 RPM area of that page. Make sense?

On the other hand, with a simple fuel controller, if idle is rich or lean, you adjust the idle setting on the fuel controller with the + or - to add or remove fuel. If mid range is off, you would adjust mid-range up or down. And if WOT is off, you would adjust that by clicking the settings up or down. Much more simple for the novice or someone that just doesn't have the time to do the other type of tuning the VDI has.

Buster