[BATTLEGUN]

Like most other things, there are several plow manufactures to choose from. Aside from noteable difference such as mechanical down-pressure (don't know the tech term), quick attachment, and the new acuator by Warn, I don't see any real differences. All appear to have (generally) the same grade metal, push tube assemblies and mounting brackets as well capability. So this makes it hard to choose. I know I don't want to put out the money it would cost to get a "blackline", but I want a capable unit for 660. I've looked at brands such as Moose, Cycle Country, Warn, & Swisher. Anyone have any experince with this subject that might point me in a direction? :dontknow:

My intended uses for the plow are snow removal (although we don't get a lot) "minor" driveway repair, "minor" landscape projects. Keep in mind I know the limits of this equipment and I'm not going to try to use it as a bulldozer. :nono:

 

[Scott]

Like most other things, there are several plow manufactures to choose from. Aside from noteable difference such as mechanical down-pressure (don't know the tech term), quick attachment, and the new acuator by Warn, I don't see any real differences. All appear to have (generally) the same grade metal, push tube assemblies and mounting brackets as well capability. So this makes it hard to choose. I know I don't want to put out the money it would cost to get a "blackline", but I want a capable unit for 660. I've looked at brands such as Moose, Cycle Country, Warn, & Swisher. Anyone have any experince with this subject that might point me in a direction? :dontknow:

My intended uses for the plow are snow removal (although we don't get a lot) "minor" driveway repair, "minor" landscape projects. Keep in mind I know the limits of this equipment and I'm not going to try to use it as a bulldozer. :nono:

Man, there was a dealer on ebay selling brand new Blackline setups for the 660 recently. The auctions were ending in $450-$500 range. Do a search, he may still be doing it.

 

[Koko]

Go with what you can get for a great price. If I was buying a brand new plow right now I'd still lean towards a Tusk. For the price and mounting system it can't be beat. I have a Moose plow that works great. I'm currently writing a review for the Rapid Mount System but at this point I would reccomend to looks elsewhere. Or go with the basic gen1 Moose setup.

 

[Thom]

I just bought a Tusk from and did a write up on it. I was very impresssed withthe plow. Works real well for my application. If I am allowed I can post my write up if you are interested.

 

[Koko]

Thom if you could email it to myself or any review crew member, we'll read it over and discuss any edits then let it be p osted up.

See here for details.
http://www.atvtorture.com/forum/index.php?topic=310.0

 

[Thom]

Koko sounds good. I will e-mail it to you.

 

[BATTLEGUN]

Not heard of a tusk before. I'll go check them out when I get a chance. And thanks for the heads up Koko. I had some issues, well more like questions about them (quick connects), but I need to see one from all angles before I start asking. It just appears that there are some very obvious weaknesses that I can't afford to have for the type applications I'll be doing.

 

[Koko]

That's what we are hear for. Tusk plows can be found at Rockymountain Atv. They are a rebranded Eagle Brand plow just for RMATV.

 

[Boloiii]

I have a straight blade Moose pin hookup.
My Dad has a straight blade Cycle Country.
My Brother-in-law has a Swisher.
A friend of mine has a county (tapered) style Cycle country.

I love my Moose. It has a nice smooth agressive curve so it rolls the snow very well with just the weight of the plow. The swivel adjustment is easy to use and works smoothly. The skids are an good sized pad so they do not dig in. I use my winch to lift and lower but install a short rope just for use when plowing season arrives.

The straight Cycle Country is horrible. The blade does not have enough curve so when pushing larger amount of snow it tends to push a bank of snow instead of rolling it away. The swivel adjustment is not as smooth as my Moose. It is lighter and will ride over mildly packed snow.

The Swisher has a very nice mount and lift design. The highest lift height I am aware of. Also, the way it mounts keeps the front from squating as far as others. The down side to this set-up is, it is not a quick install or removal. If you run A-arm guards they have to be taken off to mount the leaf spring in front to the A-arms. The blade tends to push the snow as well. It is a press formed blade rather than the rolled design. The ribs that this creates do not allow the snow to slide around the curve and roll.

The County (Tapered) style blade. This thing is incredible if you are able to plow off to one side of the blade promarily. It throws the snow higher and in turn further than the straight design. Deeper snow is handled much easier with this design as the blade clears very well. It does plow toward the narrow end just not as efficiently as the wide end.

If I were to get another I would deffinitely go with the tapered blade regardless of manufacturer.

 

[BATTLEGUN]

If I were to get another I would deffinitely go with the tapered blade regardless of manufacturer.

How do you feel a taperd blade will perform in the other areas I mentioned? I've looked at them and thougt about them, but felt that snow removal isn't often enough or deep enough that I should get this set up. You def. have my attention with the blade shape though. It makes sense the more degree of the arc the more snow (or whatever) will roll off and ultimately out of the way.

So good points have been argueed for Moose (gen1), tusk, and any tapered plow blade. Thanks for the replies so far.

 

[Koko]

If it's very little snow removal and more grading, then I'd go for a straight blade vs a tapered (also know as a County plow). If you have a long straight driveway and you're plowing snow then I'd go with a tapered. My driveway I have to use a straight blade for snow. For pushing dirt and mulch, I'd go with a straight.

 

[BATTLEGUN]

If it's very little snow removal and more grading, then I'd go for a straight blade vs a tapered (also know as a County plow). If you have a long straight driveway and you're plowing snow then I'd go with a tapered. My driveway I have to use a straight blade for snow. For pushing dirt and mulch, I'd go with a straight.

Why do you have to use a straight blade for your driveway? FWIW, my new drive way may approach 1/4 mile, will be gravel, have straight areas, but will def have a few turns one being a gradual 90.

 

[Koko]

If it's very little snow removal and more grading, then I'd go for a straight blade vs a tapered (also know as a County plow). If you have a long straight driveway and you're plowing snow then I'd go with a tapered. My driveway I have to use a straight blade for snow. For pushing dirt and mulch, I'd go with a straight.

Why do you have to use a straight blade for your driveway? FWIW, my new drive way may approach 1/4 mile, will be gravel, have straight areas, but will def have a few turns one being a gradual 90.

I only have a driveway that's big enough for 8 cars...I can't get up to speed and have the snow being throw by a tapered blade. It's short pushing. I just angle the blade to take care of what I want.

 

[BATTLEGUN]

I only have a driveway that's big enough for 8 cars...I can't get up to speed and have the snow being throw by a tapered blade. It's short pushing. I just angle the blade to take care of what I want.

Very good point there Koko.

 

[Boloiii]

With limited amounts of snow I would go with the straight Moose, or another that has a comparable curve. I do not have any experience with the Tusk. I believe it will perform better in the other situations you plan to use it for than the taper unit would. The tapered blade works best for deep snow and if you can get the speed like Koko mentioned. I guess you could say it is more purpose built for heavier snow removal.

I do have that long winding gravel drive and in Wisconsin we do get those heavier snowfalls, this is why my next will be tapered.