Outlander CV Boot Replacement

30954 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by BATTLEGUN, Dec 17, 2009

BATTLEGUN

Discussion Starter · Jun 28, 2009 (Edited)

STEP 1: LIFT QUAD AND STABLIZE WITH JACK STANDS OR BLOCKS. REMOVE THE TIRE. (TRUST ME, YOU WILL NEED THE QUAD TO BE STABLE B/C YOU WILL HAVE TO ISSUE A LOT OF FORCE IN CERTAIN STEPS OF THIS PROCEDURE).

STEP 2: REMOVE THE SIDE PANELS, FOOT WELL, AND PEGS.

STEP 3: ONCE STEP 2 IS COMPLETE, THE TRAIL ARM IS FULLY EXPOSED AND YOU CAN EASILY GET TO THE AREA OF CONCERN. YOU WILL ALSO WANT TO REMOVE THE LOWER BOLT ON THE SHOCK. I REMOVED THE SHOCK JUST TO ELIMINATE THE EXTRA HASSLE.

STEP 4: REMOVE THE WHEEL HUB.

STEP 5: THIS IS WHERE THE FUN BEGINS. YOU MUST REMOVE THE RUBBER PROTECTIVE COVER AND THE TORSION BAR (INCORRECTLY LABELED "TORQUE PLATE" IN THE PHOTO - SORRY). IN ORDER TO THIS, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE ELASTIC NUT AND SNAP RING. ACTUALLY, KEEP THE ELASTIC NUT JUST ON THE END OF THE BOLT. SINCE ALL OF THESE PARTS WERE DRENCHED IN LOCK-TIGHT DURING ASSEMBLY, YOU ARE GOING TO NEED SOME EXTRA ENCOURAGEMENT TO REMOVE A COUPLE OF THESE PARTS. SO, WITH THE NUT IN PLACE, TAKE A SMALL BOARD AND LARGE HAMMER AND COMMENCE TO BEATING THE CRAP OUT OF IT. THIS WILL EVENTUALLY JAR THE TORSION BAR OUT.

STEP 6: REMOVE THE SPANNER BOLT. IN ORDER TO DO THIS, YOU WILL NEED THE CUSTOM SPANNER SOCKET. THIS SOCKET IS SIMILIAR TO EVERY OTHER SPANNER SOCKET YOU'VE EVER SEEN, BUT ITS SIZING SEEMS TO BE UNIQUE TO CAN-AM. I TRIED A TOTAL OF 6 DIFFERENT SPANNER SOCKETS WITH NO LUCK. I HAD TO GO TO THE DEALER TO GET THE RIGHT TOOL. PART NUMBER 529 035 925

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BATTLEGUN

Discussion Starter · #2 · Jun 28, 2009

Continued...

STEP 7: WITH THE SPANNER BOLT OFF, YOU CAN NOW REMOVE THE TRAILING ARM. REMEMBER, EVERYTHING WAS COATED WITH LOCK-TIGHT, SO YOU WILL NEED TO APPLY FORCE HERE. I ENDED UP TAKING AN OLD GROUNDING ROD AND COMING THROUGH FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE QUAD, SHOWN IN THE PICTURE BELOW, AND KNOCKING IT OFF WITH SEVERAL GOOD HITS WITH A LARGE HAMMER. THIS GROUNDING ROD (OR WHATEVER YOU CHOOSE) WILL BE USED AGAIN SO KEEP IT CLOSE.

STEP 8: YOU WILL WANT TO CLEAN OUT THE JOINT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. DON'T WORRY, THE BOOT KIT HAS MORE GREASE IN THE BAG. USE THE GROUNDING ROD (OR OBJECT OF CHOICE) AND GET A GOOD BITE ON THE OUTER JOINT OF THE AXLE. A COUPLE GOOD DIRECT IMPACTS WILL KNOCK THE AXLE OUT. ONCE THE AXLE IS OUT, PLACE IT IN A VISE AND USE THE GROUNDING ROD TO SEPERATE THE JOINT. AGAIN A FEW GOOD DIRECT HITS WILL SEPERATE THE JOINT FROM THE AXLE.

STEP 9: SLIDE THE OLD BOOT OFF AND REPLACE WITH THE NEW ONE. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CLAMPS ON AS WELL. USE THE LINE ON THE AXLE TO ENSURE PROPER ALIGNMENT. REPLACE THE CIRCLIP (PROVIDED IN THE NEW BOOT KIT). NOW YOU HAVE TO PUT THE AXLE BACK IN THE JOINT. THIS TAKES SOME PATIENCE AND SOME MUSCLE. MAKE SURE YOU GET IT ALL THE WAY IN. THEN TAKE THE AXLE BACK TO THE QUAD AND PUT IT BACK IN THE GEAR BOX. THIS WILL ALSO TAKE SOME FORCE.

STEP 10: WALLA! YOU'RE DONE. ALMOST. NOW ALL THAT IS LEFT IS TO REASSEMBLE THE QUAD. YOU WILL WANT A TORQUE WRENCH AND A COUPLE REPLACEMENT PARTS. REPLACEMENT PARTS WILL BE LISTED BY PART NUMBER SHORTLY.

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BATTLEGUN

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 29, 2009

I didn't re-apply lock-tight. So far, no squeak. I did apply lock-tight to the nut that holds the torsion bar in place though.

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BATTLEGUN

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 1, 2009

B-Dub said:
Yeah I've heard loctite there is a necessity.

The torsion bar or the elastic nut....or both?

I gave the outty hell the other day and still no problems. I'll be confirming the tightness of it though when I put it down again.

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BATTLEGUN

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 16, 2009

Wow. I'm glad dilligaf responded to this thread. I had forgotten where I read about the squeak.

My quad now has the mentioned "annoying" squeak. Looks like I need to go back in and put some lock tight on and see if that fixes it.

Dilligaf, I can get you the part number tonight or in the morning when I get home. I found it in my repair manual.

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BATTLEGUN

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 17, 2009

Here is the spanner socket/wrench part number. I also updated the original post.

PART NUMBER 529 035 925

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