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Many Can-Am owners struggle with the CVT Shifter being stiff. I've even had dealers mention this and their solution is to rock the ATV while applying gentle pressure. This is frustrating and ususally ends up a bit embarrasing as we "hump" the quad to get it to shift. And even eventually leads to linkage (or worse) breaking.

Stray posted a fix for this problem in another thread. I thought it was the best thing since sliced bread, so I made this thread for his (a few others) fix. See the below posts and feel free to ask questions or add comments.


Enjoy

- BG


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

mmmm... beer! ::confused:: lol! anyway, yes, there is a solution for the shifting issue. i must give credit to 2 other guys ( from a different forum) who discovered this - rene1 and ozymax, from canada and australia, respectively. so, first off, regular maintenance of the clutch components is a must. this means regular cleaning and re-greasing the one-way with isoflex. some guys use other greases, but i find the isoflex works best. this will keep it shifting, but not smoothly. here's the smooth part: there are two bearings inside the one-way. brp uses NTN brand and for some reason, they are stiff as %#@&. we've replaced them with several different brands, all seem to be much easier to spin and therefore, the cvt shifts like butter! you won't believe the difference! i tried finding replacements locally with no luck and ended up ordering them from vxb.com, for around $30. bearing # is 6808 with 2 rubber seals, you need 2 bearings. the measurements are 40mm inside diameter, 52mm outside diameter and 7mm width. after replacement, you can shift with 2 fingers and not have to hump the quad, unless you want to! :rotfl:
 

· The Sheriff
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Enlighten me. Where is this "one-way" you're referring to and how difficult is it to get to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
remove the cvt cover with a T-30 torx bit or 10mm socket (some remove the left side floorboard, but it isn't necessary - just makes it a lil easier, you can carefully manipulate the cover around the secondary clutch). now, your primary and secondary clutches are exposed, as well as your belt. since i'm in there, i like to clean everything up and inspect. use a M8 x 1.25 bolt that's at least 3 1/2 - 4 inches long, to thread into the single threaded hole in the secondary clutch - this will spread the sheaves and allow the belt to be removed. i carry this bolt when i ride, along with the tools to remove the cvt cover (haven't forked over the $140 for a spare belt yet, but will soon) just in case i need to do some maintenance on the trails. ok, so the cover is off and belt is removed. now you need to remove the primary clutch by removing the bolt that runs through it's center into the crankshaft (i believe it's 17 or 19mm). to stop the clutch from turning, i wedge a 3/8" extension between one of the "fins" and the footpeg bracket. press in on the clutch housing when it's close to coming off so that it doesn't fly off and get damaged. behind it is the primary spring, a spring retainer cup and friction washer. the shiny thing left on the crank is the one-way. don't pull it off just yet! there are two holes in the crank that keep two spring-loaded pins in them. slowly slide the one way out, a little at a time, until you locate these. use your fingers to keep the 2 pins/springs from flying across the room and remove everything. inside the one-way are the two bearings. one side has a circular wire clip, remove that and both can be carefully tapped out with a drift. carefully press the new bearings into place and replace the wire clip. clean everything really well and apply isoflex to the springs/pins, inside the one-way where they slide and the friction washer. once you do this, it's much easier than my directions make it sound. in fact, here's a series of videos to give you a better understanding of the clutch components. btw, john cannon is a legend, but i don't agree with using an impact on some of the areas that he does. just my 2 cents...


this part 1 of 3

when you put the belt back on, give the secondary clutch a few spins and it closes the sheaves and puts the tension back on the belt. also, be 100% sure to get the gasket back in correctly when re-installing the cvt cover. use your fingers to go around the bottom and check (this is why some people remove the floorboards, also). don't overtighten the bolts securing the housing.

:eek:ccasion14:
 

· THE ENFORCER
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Now that is quality entertainment! I will be ordering these bearings and install them when I put the Dalton Clutch Kit in.

On the video, I've watched it before and it is some good infromation there. I also agree he shouldn't have used an impact. But I'm not going to argue with him. I'll do mine my way.

I can not thank you enough for that fix. I like my quad, but feel rediculus "when I have to hump it" and have gotten angry enough to break it a few times.

The last several posts are worthy of their own thread. I will seperating them during my lunch break (if one of the others don't beat me to it). I'll link it here and probably many other places before it's said and done! Thanks again Stray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now that is quality entertainment! I will be ordering these bearings and install them when I put the Dalton Clutch Kit in.

On the video, I've watched it before and it is some good infromation there. I also agree he shouldn't have used an impact. But I'm not going to argue with him. I'll do mine my way.

I can not thank you enough for that fix. I like my quad, but feel rediculus "when I have to hump it" and have gotten angry enough to break it a few times.

The last several posts are worthy of their own thread. I will seperating them during my lunch break (if one of the others don't beat me to it). I'll link it here and probably many other places before it's said and done! Thanks again Stray.
no problem! i'll try to get a quick vid of how easy it shifts this afternoon. i still hump mine, just now i do it while flying off of jumps! :thumbup:
 

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rather than buying a large quantity that i'll never end up using, i buy it in a small amount from "quadaholic", one of the mods at aurorawheelers.com


$15, incl. s/h arrived in about 3 days from the west coast (i'm in pa).

For more information on ordering the ISOFLEX, please send BATTLEGUN a PM.
 

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I just installed the bearings tonight...thx to rene1 he shippied me the exact same bearings as he has in his bike...they seem to be a hell of alot smoother with touching it with my finger...

they are installed now but havent had a chance to try them cause my son is sleeping...

and I think I greased them up way to much lol...I added grease to the bearings, the inside of the oneway sleeve where the bearings are places and in the middle of the oneway bearing where you are supposed to put the grease...and I also did the black washer and the springs and caps...

dont think I was supposed to grease the bearings...ooops...might have to take them apart and clean them up and then just grease where I am supposed to...

or you guys think it will be ok the way I have it now...hope I dont get spray on the sheaves...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i don't know, stiff. i use minimal grease on the one-way components. in fact, i only put a light coating on the springs and pins, the groove they slide in and a light coating on the friction washer. like you said, you definitely don't want it to get flung onto the sheaves, and contaminate the belt. i know it's a pita, but you could potentially save yourself a huge hassle by cleaning it up a little. just my opinion...

can't wait till you try out the new bearings! i've gotten a couple nasty pms over at awf, just cause i suggested replacing them. :protest:
 

· THE ENFORCER
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i don't know, stiff. i use minimal grease on the one-way components. in fact, i only put a light coating on the springs and pins, the groove they slide in and a light coating on the friction washer. like you said, you definitely don't want it to get flung onto the sheaves, and contaminate the belt. i know it's a pita, but you could potentially save yourself a huge hassle by cleaning it up a little. just my opinion...

can't wait till you try out the new bearings! i've gotten a couple nasty pms over at awf, just cause i suggested replacing them. :protest:
What do you mean nasty? Why?

BTW, I agree with Stray here that you will prolly save yourself some grief if you clean up in there. Too much of a good thing usually turns on you.
 

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ok well took everything apart again and cleaned her up good...now it should be perfect lol...since im a pro now...

anyway here is my review...

ok so with the old bearings installed I tried to shift with the machine running...had to hump and was a pita as we all know...

then shut the bike off and tried....still hard to shift....

then I took the belt off with the bike not running...still hard to shift...maybe cause the bike was off...

then installed the new bearings

no belt hard to shift
belt and off still hard to shift...
belt on and quad running....no effort at all..it shifted and I didnt even hear a clunk or anything...it went in as easy as a yamaha grizzley shifts...if any of you have shifted a grizz you know what I mean...

then I took it for a run and then stopped and shifted through all the gears...no humping at all...

did the same run again this time I rode like I normally would..

no humping when going through the gears...

this mod works...although you will have to get the proper bearings...

I got my bearings from rene1 he shipped them to me...although I might have found a place out here that sells them...just have to wait till Monday to find out..

for all of you that want to know what bearings

they are

RBL 61808 2RS bearings from Auto Sense auto part stores...Im not sure if Auto Sense is in the US but it is all over Canada...so anyone in Canada that wants to do the mod just look for your nearest auto sense store and ask them about the bearings...

THIS MOD WORKS....NO JOKE

I also have the same fluid in as I did before the bearing switch...the only thing changed was the bearings...

***UPDATE***

there still is the odd odd hump that you have to do...but it is more for pleasure than for shifting purposes....lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What do you mean nasty? Why?

alot of negative sh*t because i suggested changing out the oem bearings. a couple guys have accused me of "selling snake oil" when i said i did this and it worked for me. both in the thread and in a few pms. i'm surprised i haven't gotten any warnings cause i fired back a few pretty bad persoanl insults when i replied to their pms. i don't want to mention any names... here's the thing, if someone had tried the new bearings, and it did nothing for them, then i can respect their input. but these guys haven't done d*%k to try and fix the hard shifting, they just wanna run their mouths like they're experts on everything! anyway, i'm glad you did the mod, stiff. and i'm more than thrilled that it worked for you, and you've posted results - thanks.
:thumbup:
 
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