[BATTLEGUN]

While I understand the topic of ATV break-in periods are controversial, how do you guys break your ATVs in and how long do you consider the ATV to be in the break-in period?

I have typically followed the book until the first service, then I ride it like its mine but still follow all maintenance rules.

 

[GRIZZLYWIZARD]

I have alway followed this standard when breaking in any powersports type engine.

1. Check all fluids, Drain original factory oil and replace with frech oil and filter.
2. Start engine, and let idle til engine temp runs steady for 10 minutes. Let it cool completely to room temperature. Repeat two more times (patience is a virtue). I never rev the vehicle only idle.
3. If it is a re-built motor, I chance the oil and filter again. If a new machine, I may skip this step. This is up to you.
4. Next step is to road test the vehicle. I do it by running the vehicle and never exceeding 25% throttle. for about 5 miles. Never hold the throttle at static level for more that a few seconds. I then allow a cool down period, restart and warm up and proceed another 5 miles at no more than 50% throttle.
5. After the initial 25% and 50% test is complete I ride a consevative pace never exceeding 75% throttle. After that tank of fuel is empty I change engine oil and filter, inspect for any leaking, check all fluids again and call it good. It may be overkill but it has always worked well for me.

For engine oil I try to buy something that is economical, but meets the manufactures rating. I have been using Rotella as it has no friction modifiers and is less than $10 a gallon. I do need to add that since using the Rotella I do notice the Grizzly was using a little oil when compared to Yamalube.

 

[Mack450]

While I understand the topic of ATV break-in periods are controversial, how do you guys break your ATVs in and how long do you consider the ATV to be in the break-in period?

I have typically followed the book until the first service, then I ride it like its mine but still follow all maintenance rules.

I broke my quad in by not killing it but riding it how I normally ride. I didn't go out and drive 55MPH for 10 miles when I first got it. I rode normally....gassed it when I needed to. I gave it some wide open shots. I don't say baby the heck outta it. But definitely don't be too crazy.

 

[3TV]

My break in routine is similar to Grizzly Wizzards, but without the idle time. Letting a new engine idle is not best for cam break in. I try to purchase a NEW ATV that is still in the crate at the dealership, and not an ATV that has been used for demo rides. I start it at the dealer just barely long enough to load it on the trailer and take it home. Once home, I do three heat cycles with the engine. A heat cycle means I start the engine and ride it around slow at less than 25% throttle, continually varying the throttle, for five minutes, which is just barely long enough to bring the engine up to its normal operating temperature. After each heat cycle I let the engine cool to room temperature (usually over night). After the three heat cycles are completed I will take the ATV on longer rides, continually varying the throttle, but keeping throttle to less than 50%. At five engine hours I change the oil and filter, and put in the best synthetic oil I can find. After the first five engine hours I will allow very brief throttle applications up to 100%, but only VERY briefly, and I try to keep sustained throttle application to less than 50% throttle. Once the engine has ten hours on it I change the oil and filter again, and will then ride it just like any other ATV.

3TV

 

[BATTLEGUN]

Wow. Couple of you guys take the break-in very seriously. What is your reasoning? There are people out there that will tell you to ride it like you stole it or break it in ever how you will ride it, which seems to be just about the opposite of the more anal method.

Another point to bring is that I've bought a few new vehicles (not talking ATVs) and the dealership guys have told me to not worry about a break-in period. Does this mean these guys are using technology not yet used in ATVs or do they just want to see the worst happen so you will be back to the dealership sooner?

Last but not least, do you guys follow such a strict regiment to facilitate power or longevity?

 

[GRIZZLYWIZARD]

One of the main reasons for the engine break in is to make sure all moving parts are seated. Mainly valve train and pistons. I always considered it to myself as a piece of mind on a new machine, plus it gave me ample time to get acquainted with everything and make sure the dealer did his job of proper assembly. When I was in college, my lab group took on a project of testing various theories of naturally aspirated ICE's (internal combustion engine). We used a motorcycle engine from I think a 500 Night Train (?). I bet my lab group rebuilt that engine 100 times experimenting with different things and we always noticed that a proper never exceeding 1/2 throttle yielded the best compression results but it never really was proportionate major HP gain or loss. The compression did hold steady after a specified duration v.s. when the throttle was ran 75% or beyond power right from the start. Bottom line...It helps to do something conservative during the first few hours.

I have heard the same thing that 3TV mentioned about the "no" idling for cam break in and should be added into your list of steps. We never noticed any lobe or bearing wear during our tests that I could recall. I'm trying to remember back 15 years now but I thought that it had to do primarily with car cams due to the reciprocating mass of the larger cam. Again, I can't remember completely. But why not add that into a break in procedure. It can't hurt.

I really think that if you restrain from running over 50% throttle for the first 100 miles, replace the oil and run another 100 miles miles and repeat you will most likely be safe. Besides, most of us never keep a quad long enough to require a rebuild unless it was self inflicted by neglect or abuse of some sort.

 

[BATTLEGUN]

Very interesting feedback GW. I don't think I'll hear such a response from one of the guys that say "break it in the way you will drive it".

 

[3TV]

With our family of four, I've purchased a few dozen ATVs in the last decade, and I've only had engine problems with three of them.

The first was a 2000 Yamaha Wolverine that my wife overheated on a hard core trail called Rock Canyon. The engine temp light came on and she did not know what the light was for, so she kept riding it until the Wolverine's air/oil cooled motor was literally smoking hot. After that the engine developed an oil leak past the valves and would blow oil smoke out the exhaust for the first several minutes every time it was started with a cold engine.

The second was a 2002 Honda 250 EX that for some reason lost oiling to a main crankshaft bearing. It seized up the crankshaft while my son was riding it one day in the desert. It cost more to rebuild the engine than the ATV was worth, so it was a total write off. We basically threw it away after selling what parts we could.

The third was a 2005 Kawasaki KFX 700 that I used the Motoman engine break in method on. I followed his break in method to a tee, which specifies brief full throttle use right from the start. This Kawasaki ATV was the only ATV I have owned other than the Wolverine that developed the same oil blow by problem, and would blow engine oil out the exhaust when the engine was cold. After this engine break in related problem I went back to my old method of heat cycling the engine and avoiding more than 50% throttle for the first five hours, and haven't had a problem since.

3TV

 

[GRIZZLYWIZARD]

There you go Battlegun. I think with the vast experience and ownership of ATV's that 3TV has had and the amount of problems encountered there is definitely a higher pass fail ratio with his method. I am going to give his method a try on the next ATV I purchase.

 

[heritage1]

I first check all fluid levels, start the machine and let it warm up. then I run the sh$t out of it. I dont keep at an idle very long and I dont keep the rpm's the same very long. The cylinder pressure created by the rpm's helps seat the rings and the heat cycle helps temper all the parts to the style of riding you intend in doing. I could be wrong but Ive used this process on all my engines and have had good luck with little oil consumption and longevity.

 

[TMarchand]

I will usually just take a easy for the first 20 hours of use and make sure to vary my RPM. When I do come to a stop, I will let it idle for a little bit before shutting it off. I also check the oil after each ride.

I then change the oil after the first 20 hours and then twice a year if I am doing a lot of riding, especially at the dunes.

As you probably already guessed, I use AMSOIL in all my ATVs and vehicles and have been very happy with the results. I have tried Rotella once before but not convienced it is a true synthetic since they use a level 3 base stock and AMSOIL uses a level 4 base stock.

Let me know if I can help anyone with AMSOIL Products.

AMSOIL Powersports Products

 

[GRIZZLYWIZARD]

I will usually just take a easy for the first 20 hours of use and make sure to vary my RPM. When I do come to a stop, I will let it idle for a little bit before shutting it off. I also check the oil after each ride.

I then change the oil after the first 20 hours and then twice a year if I am doing a lot of riding, especially at the dunes.

As you probably already guessed, I use AMSOIL in all my ATVs and vehicles and have been very happy with the results. I have tried Rotella once before but not convienced it is a true synthetic since they use a level 3 base stock and AMSOIL uses a level 4 base stock.

Let me know if I can help anyone with AMSOIL Products.

AMSOIL Powersports Products

I have heard varying thoughts on breaking a machine in with synthetic oil. Some claim that synthetic is too slippery to allow the engine to properly seat everything in. What's your take on it?

 

[TMarchand]

I have heard varying thoughts on breaking a machine in with synthetic oil. Some claim that synthetic is too slippery to allow the engine to properly seat everything in. What's your take on it?

I personnaly run the oil that came with it for the first 20-30 hours and then move over to synthetic. Normally by then it is broken in enough that you should have no issues. Additionally, AMSOIL is going to help protect your investment while it is in not being used, humidity, or short drives by proventing rust.

Take a look here to see what I am talking about.

 

[Gunny]

I started my ATV passion with a Honda 185 three wheeler. I broke it in just as the book said.

I had a buddy who also bought a 185 at the same time ... after a few months, we raced. He would KMA !!! ........ so we'd swap rides & his bike would still just leave mine in the dust. I asked him how he broke his in & he told me. "Break it in the same way you intend to ride it".

I've used that theory on every other bike I've owned. Everytime I would rebuild the Banshee, I'd warm it up, run it up & down the street fairly easy until it warmed up & then I'd peg it for all it was worth for a good distance. Then cruise back to the garage. Let it cool, & do the same thing over & over with the "Full Pull" being a little longer each time. Never had a problem with the motor not lasting.

When I did the 686 in my Grizz, I broke it the same way. I took it to the mountains & "Raced" it on some open stretches for a while. Then I'd do some cruising, hill climbs & then more racing. It seems to be running really strong right now with the tracks, so I'm very pleased .....

I also change the oil often when first breaking a motor in. I'd change it after the very first ride, then the fourth, then the 7th or 8th, and then I change it about every 500 miles. (Give or take how I've ridden it)

I use regular oil to break the motor in & run it for a couple hundred miles, then I switch to Amsoil 0-40 4-Stroke oil. I've had REAL good luck with that oil, so no reason to change.

:hello:

 

[TMarchand]

Synthetic oils are not thinner than other oils, they are more uniformed on a molecular level making them flow better and more efficiency. That is why when used in cars or trucks you will sometimes see a slight increase in MPG.