ATV Torture Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My troubles all started with my ignition fuse blowing. I would start the bike head on down the road to do my chores and the ignition fuse would blow after about 2-3 miles. I placed another ignition fuse in the holder and It would be fine for a while. Then it might blow after about an hour of use. Sometimes sooner. My Display started acting weird as well. When you first turn the key on the Speed/tach needle would go to the extreme right and the LCD display would come up normal. Then LCD resets and and goes blank only to start the whole cycle over again. The needle will stay in the same place but the LCD just keeps resetting.

I talked to the dealer mechanic and he said to check the wiring harness feeding the key switch/display. Apparently there is a problem with the wires rubbing and shorting out. I removed about two feet of tape only to find all the wires intact. I bought another used display off e-bay. The new/used display doesn't even turn on the LCD. The lights all work and the needle cycles but no LCD. I have removed the CDI and disconnected the battery to let the system reset. I get the same results after reconnecting everything back.

I have also disconnected about every device one at a time and tested and I get the same results. When I have the CDI box disconnected the display is completely dead. I have not a had a fuse blow since I started trouble shooting. I haven't rode the bike down the road either.

Any Ideas?

-Dan
 

· The Boss
Joined
·
4,037 Posts
My troubles all started with my ignition fuse blowing. I would start the bike head on down the road to do my chores and the ignition fuse would blow after about 2-3 miles. I placed another ignition fuse in the holder and It would be fine for a while. Then it might blow after about an hour of use. Sometimes sooner. My Display started acting weird as well. When you first turn the key on the Speed/tach needle would go to the extreme right and the LCD display would come up normal. Then LCD resets and and goes blank only to start the whole cycle over again. The needle will stay in the same place but the LCD just keeps resetting.

I talked to the dealer mechanic and he said to check the wiring harness feeding the key switch/display. Apparently there is a problem with the wires rubbing and shorting out. I removed about two feet of tape only to find all the wires intact. I bought another used display off e-bay. The new/used display doesn't even turn on the LCD. The lights all work and the needle cycles but no LCD. I have removed the CDI and disconnected the battery to let the system reset. I get the same results after reconnecting everything back.

I have also disconnected about every device one at a time and tested and I get the same results. When I have the CDI box disconnected the display is completely dead. I have not a had a fuse blow since I started trouble shooting. I haven't rode the bike down the road either.

Any Ideas?

-Dan
Dan,

I am sorry for your loss...Well actually sorry that you have electrical problems. These are always very hard to troubleshoot. This particular problem sounds like it my be related to your ECU / CDI. Not being real familiar with Arctic Cats I can't troubleshoot any better than my first prognosis' however, I have seen similar behavior on other machines which leads me to believing that it is the ECU /CDI.

Hopefully some Arctic Cat guys will chime in an add their $.02 worth to this conversation.

I do however have one request to ask you. Have you measured battery voltage on start up and during the running cycle of the quad? You will need a volt meter to accomplish this.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't measured voltage yet. My multi-meter is at the farm. I will get it back this weekend. However, when there is low system voltage the display will flash "Volt". I will check voltage to make sure. The bike cranks over and starts just fine. My Cat dealer is almost an hour and a half away in Bolivar, MO. There is a Kawasaki dealer close by. Since it is a Kawasaki Motor and the electrical components are the same on the Brute Force V-twins I wonder if they might be able to offer some advice?
 

· The Boss
Joined
·
4,037 Posts
I haven't measured voltage yet. My multi-meter is at the farm. I will get it back this weekend. However, when there is low system voltage the display will flash "Volt". I will check voltage to make sure. The bike cranks over and starts just fine. My Cat dealer is almost an hour and a half away in Bolivar, MO. There is a Kawasaki dealer close by. Since it is a Kawasaki Motor and the electrical components are the same on the Brute Force V-twins I wonder if they might be able to offer some advice?
Kawasaki...???

That's the problem! Just kidding. I own a Kawie too. I thought that at one time AC used Suzuki engines. I guess I didn't keep track of the Kawasaki transition.

I am still leaning toward the ECU / CDI myself. Wanna get a poll going on what the problem ends up being?
 

· THE ENFORCER
Joined
·
2,036 Posts
Being that you replaced the ECU and it worked differently....it almost sounds like you got a second defaulty ECU of Ebay. I'm not pointing fingers, just how it looks. I also agree with GW's opinion on the CDI possibly being the culprit.

I'm not sure which I'd try first. I'm sure they both won't be cheep. Maybe replace the CDI Box with a performance CDI, since you've already replaced the ECU once, but don't get discouraged if the ECU still needs replacing.

That is just my $.2. Welcome to the site.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the input folks. I think I got it. Since this is one of 3 650 v-twins we own I was able to do a little parts swapping. The CDI is good. and the Display is good as well. After tearing into the tape wrapped around the main wiring harness, finding no broken wires, I checked the obvious. My ding bat brother-in-law robbed the ACC fuse to get the bike home the last time it blew the IGN fuse. No harm no foul I guess. Just a lot of wasted time! Before you ask, he placed the bad fuse back into the ACC position. Thus the reason I did not know the ACC circuit had no voltage.

Thanks again,

Dan
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top