Lift it off the ground so both tires do not touch the ground. Grab the top of the tire and the bottom of the tire, or have a buddy do it so you can look, and push in and out. Look and see where you see play.

If the ball joints are shot, you will see movement there. If the bearings are gone, you will see the spindle is stiff but the spindle moves in the hub.

If they are sitting in that much, you either have REALLY bad bearings or the upper and lower balls are gone.

I have also seen when shocks are set really soft, that it will cause the tires to lean in.

Check all that and post back.

Buster

Today is Saturday and I have the day off so I will go out there and use my atv jack and jack it up and do as you and one other guy have suggested. I actually forgot that the other guy had suggested that or I would have already done that test. As I mentioned on the forum, the dealer had put heavier duty shocks on the front right off the bat. They came off of a Ranger ( I believe that is what he said) so they have the bigger spring size. I have them set about the middle though I have had them at every setting trying them all out to see which one works the best. According to what I remember, the softest setting on these is pretty close to the hardest setting on the stocks ones. I can go a little firmer setting as I have radials which take up a little bit of the shock from the rocks and what not. I even have rear shocks off of a Ranger on the rear as the stock shocks let the machine sit too low when we're on it. The Ranger shocks are probably about an inch and a half longer too. We don't weigh any more than the average couple but I just found we were losing too much ground clearancee with the stock shocks. I'm guessing we gained about 1 and a 1/2" of ground clearance while loaded which is a big help.
So my wife and I will do this test and let you know. Actually, I wasn't even aware there were bearings in there as the shop manual doesn't say anything about bearings at least not that I saw. I'll have to take another look. I sure wouldn't think the bearings would be getting worn that quickly but it's either the bsall joints wearing that quickly or the bearings or both. Talk with ya later. Thank you for answering my call for help. Larry

Well, that was easy. I did look at the shop manual again (I found out this shop manual is the same manual as our Polaris shop uses and is it ever a good one, way way better than any chiltons or haynes ever thought of being) and did see the bearing you are talking about. They actuall call the spindle the wheel hub assembly but at least I now know what you were referring to. I've worked on enough trailers over the years that I should have known right away what you were referring to. We learn from each other and isn't that what these forums are all about anyway? So, I did go out there and jack the thing up. The right side (while sitting on the machine) definately has play in it. I thought at first it was coming from the bearing until I took the tire off and was able to see it a little better. And I was able to grab onto the rotor to rock it back and forth and could tell that the play is definately coming from the ball joint(s). I know there is play in the top one but couldn't really tell that the bottom one had play because the top one was moving so much. If the bottom one has play it's not nearly as bad. Now what's odd is that the left side doesn't feel like it's got any play in it at all. And I mean none not even a smidgen but yet it's tilting in almost as much as the right side. The left side (after measuring it yesterday, is 1 1/2" difference and the left side is 1". The shocks, I noticed, are set on the stiffest setting on both sides. I wanted to make that clear in case there was any doubt as to whether both shocks weren't set the same. That wouldn't make too much sense though I suppose some people might accidentally forget to set the other side. There is no play in either side from the bearings. I was actually hoping it was the bearings, as that would have been as easier fix. The A arms are going to be a little bit more of a hassle. Can those ball joints be pounded out of the A arms while the arms are still on the machine? The shop manual said the arms had to be removed from the machine to do this but I wonder if that's necessary. Looks like 2 bolts on the inside of each plus 1 pinch bolt on the bearing carrier assembly plus a shock bolt and the small bolt for the brake cable holder. If it were just that easy. Because I took it in right away for this problem after I got the wheeler, I wonder if the dealer would be willing to replace the ball joints on that side even though the thing is way out of warranty. I'll have to run that by them. If I were a betting man, I'd have to bet no, but I have been wrong before. If they won't do that, then maybe they would be willing to sell me the ball joints either at a discount or just give them to me and to press/pount the ball joints out of the A arms for me. If I told them I would take the A arms off and take them over to them, maybe they would just stick some new ball joints in them for me for a small price. One can only hope. Any way, thank you again for responding to my inquiry on the forum. If I ever have any other problems, I will surely remember you are there for those of us who can't figure this stuff out for ourselves. May God bless you. Larry

my 850 xp blew up with 1200 kms on it they did nothing for me it cost me 4500 to put another engine in