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First thing you are going to need to do is replace the Tie Rods and ends if you are going to do any aggressive high speed riding, these are very weak. Next thing you will need to focus on at about 1000 miles are the A-arm bearings. These are a sealed bearing that lets water and grin in, but evidently not out. There is a kit that converts this bearing setup to a straight bushing along with a zerk fitting for regular greasing.
Other than those little nuances, and servicing the belt regularly, the Brute is a very reliable machine. Maybe not as reliable as the Grizz but the power is much more fun! Do a little clutch work (spring and weights), and it will hang with all the Canned Hams.
I have been trying to find where I could get aftermarket tie rods and ends but have only found the ends. Maybe I just missed where the rods were. I plan on either running stock rims and new tires or my old setup which was 14" rims and 26" Terra's. What clutch mods do you recomend? A whole kit or just the maroon spring and some weights? I havent found info on the weights yet so dont know what weights to change to. I plan on exhaust and Tfi tuner also and maybe more stuff later on.
__________________
For Riding
2011 RZR S Orange Madness LE
For Sale
2009 Brute Force 750i, Green, EPI Maroon Primary, Uni, Custom Snorkles, 25" Bighorn 2.0's, Copperhead ECU
I have been trying to find where I could get aftermarket tie rods and ends but have only found the ends. Maybe I just missed where the rods were. I plan on either running stock rims and new tires or my old setup which was 14" rims and 26" Terra's. What clutch mods do you recomend? A whole kit or just the maroon spring and some weights? I havent found info on the weights yet so dont know what weights to change to. I plan on exhaust and Tfi tuner also and maybe more stuff later on.
ASR makes the tie rods and ends. They are much more durable than the stock ones. I am Running the ASR setup on my V, and they are holding up well and look good also.
As for the clutch, call Vforce John at Interstate Motorsports. He machines it, and it will make the power that you need add the maroon spring and you are done. You will be surprised at how it behaves then. John does 2nd day shipping and same day machining. If he gets it on Monday, you could be riding riding by Wednesday.
We are getting 49 HP with Bighorns, EHS intake, EHS Bullet Box and stock exhaust right now on the Brute Force. Add an exhaust, and I am expecting another 2-3 more ponies. Supposedly if you install an ignition module like the Brooks module, you will inhibit the low speed retard. This will give you much more launch, I personally don't know why you need that anyway since you can hardly keep the front down to begin with.
ASR makes the tie rods and ends. They are much more durable than the stock ones. I am Running the ASR setup on my V, and they are holding up well and look good also.
As for the clutch, call Vforce John at Interstate Motorsports. He machines it, and it will make the power that you need add the maroon spring and you are done. You will be surprised at how it behaves then. John does 2nd day shipping and same day machining. If he gets it on Monday, you could be riding riding by Wednesday.
We are getting 49 HP with Bighorns, EHS intake, EHS Bullet Box and stock exhaust right now on the Brute Force. Add an exhaust, and I am expecting another 2-3 more ponies. Supposedly if you install an ignition module like the Brooks module, you will inhibit the low speed retard. This will give you much more launch, I personally don't know why you need that anyway since you can hardly keep the front down to begin with.
Thanks for the info and VDI is dynoing their unit for the Brute this week which may be a good mod too. I def like the EHS lid as on my Grizz the throttle response was night and day without it. I plan on getting an exhaust later on after I get used to what I will have.
__________________
For Riding
2011 RZR S Orange Madness LE
For Sale
2009 Brute Force 750i, Green, EPI Maroon Primary, Uni, Custom Snorkles, 25" Bighorn 2.0's, Copperhead ECU
Thanks for the info and VDI is dynoing their unit for the Brute this week which may be a good mod too. I def like the EHS lid as on my Grizz the throttle response was night and day without it. I plan on getting an exhaust later on after I get used to what I will have.
As I said the exhaust will only give you a few extra ponies. It will make more noise depending on which one you go with. If it were me though, I would stick with the Muzzy exhaust. It looks best and sounds best in my opinion. To my knowledge nobody makes a true dual setup yet.
thank you, now what is that mod or kit they were talking about on replacing the a-arms and adding a new sleave and a greese fitting. my a-arms just went out at 912 miles and lucky it was still underwarrenty but i want to replace them next time it goes out
Next thing you will need to focus on at about 1000 miles are the A-arm bearings. These are a sealed bearing that lets water and grin in, but evidently not out. There is a kit that converts this bearing setup to a straight bushing along with a zerk fitting for regular greasing.
my arms just went out and had 912 miles on it, it was under warrenty so they fixed it but i am doing to replace them next time. what is that kit?? is it on the asr site? thanks yall for the help
I can't answer this one. GW will probably be the know-all on this. Sorry.
Buster
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFORCE650i
thank you, now what is that mod or kit they were talking about on replacing the a-arms and adding a new sleave and a greese fitting. my a-arms just went out at 912 miles and lucky it was still underwarrenty but i want to replace them next time it goes out
I am trying to find the manufacture now who makes the kit. Others simple replace the bearings and bushing but install a zerk before the put it all back together. They claim this is a fix, YMMV though.
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