[This is a post from one of our regular members. Since we had two topics running on the same item, we have merged the two threads together so everyone could get everything from one topic.]
I haven't seen any reviews on anyone using a machined sheave, however, I am new here & may have missed something.
I want to give a little bike background so you have an idea of where I started before adding the machined sheave.
I own a 2003 Yamaha Grizzly 660. The only engine mods I had before the sheave change was a Pro Design K&N filter & mount, Dalton Clutch kit for 27 / 28 inch tires from 3000 to 6000 ft (even though I ride at higher elevations than 6000 ft) & a custom remote dual oil filter setup with an engine oil cooler.
The stock roller weights in the primary clutch sheave weigh in at 12 grams each. The Dalton rollers weighed in at 16 grams each.
In mid February I bought some all season tracks & since we had so much snow, began using them right away. The tracks take a fair amount of power to turn & get any speed. But they are a blast & worth every penny in my opinion.
After talking to a friend who owns a Rhino 660 which he had installed a machined sheave on for better performance in the sand, I decided to look into getting one.
I did some web searching & couldn't really find one already machined for the Grizzly ( I did later however). I could send my sheave in, but that would cut into my riding time. So I started looking at Rhino sheaves & came across a kit from Fix Power Sports. This kit came with a machined sheave, new rollers (unknown weight at the time) a jet kit with a new main & needle jet, throttle spring, etc., a couple of shim washers, & new grease.
So I went ahead & ordered the kit. (NOTE: the kit I ordered was for a 2004 Rhino 660.)
From what I had read about machined sheaves, they all seemed to have the area where the clutch rollers ride machined so the rollers can move farther outboard when power is applied.
After inspecting the Fix Power Sport sheave, it has the face, or the surface the belt rides on, machined.
Also, the weights that came in the kit weighted in at 14 grams each. So I decided to stay with my Dalton rollers.
After installing the new sheave & the primary clutch support on the bike, I started it up to make sure every thing moved as it should. I revved up the bike to watch the clutch & the belt for proper functioning. Not sure how far the belt came up the sheave face before, but it came right to the top of sheave now.
I buttoned everything up & prepared to go riding the next day & try this new sheave out.
The next day, I prepared to load the bike onto my flat bed truck. The first thing I noticed was, barely giving the bike any throttle & it moved (this is with tracks on remember). The bike drove up the ramps much easier. I was feeling good about this mod. The real test would come when I got it out on the snow.
When I got out on the snow, I noticed the bike had a lot more bottom end. It pulled harder & felt faster. I didn't really have a long flat area to try a speed run, but I was grinning for sure.
I took the first turn off the main trail & headed up this slope. I'm not sure of the grade, but it's at a fairly good angle. I nailed the throttle & I was amazed at how the bike pulled that hill. It also stayed in this power band much better. It pulled hard all the way to the top. I had good speed, quick throttle response to the point of being almost snappy.
I tore around those hills just having a blast at the new found power.
I can't wait to try this new clutch setup with my tires.
Long story short, this mod is well worth the cost.
Here's the link to Fix Power Sports ... remember, I ordered a sheave kit for a 2004 Rhino.
http://www.fixpowersports.com/pages/...lutch-kit.aspx
I'd give this mod a 10.
Later ....
Gunny
... and I guess the format was OK. 
Linear Mode
