You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
No that was for 1. I can't believe it either.. I just spoke to the owner of the shop and he said if i can go in there and do it in under 6 hours he'll pay me $400, but if not I pay him $5000.
That's the sort of thing that would nearly get me arrested. I would become such an arse at that point they would want to either have me arrested or correct the problem. I get so tired of merchants acting like they are in charge.
It was the rear right inboard on an Outlander 800 Max...
I read instructions from a few people on how it's done before I spoke to the owner and I'm convinced they're ripping me off..
Going there to collect the bike tomorrow and see what they say in person. I suspect he's trying to bluff me with the offer, but we'll see. I'm still mad as hell about it all. Just looked at my mate's Outlander 650 that's here (without dismantling anything) and I can't see anything too crazy difficult about it.
yeah, on the right side, the axle is a little shorter. jack it up, remove both wheels, unbolt both shocks. break the axle nut loose/leave it snug, and step down on the trailing arm. right side will pop out of the diff. remove axle nut and the axle is out. take off the old boot, clean out what grease you can and put the halfshaft in a vise, hit the inboard joint with a hammer/block of wood to separate it. clean out the rest of the old grease, install new boot and smack the inboard cv joint back on the shaft. new grease, new clamps and reinstall it on the bike. sounds like you will need to find a new dealer, or get used to performing all of your own work, unless it's covered under the warranty.
Hey guys, I picked up the bike this morning and sorted it out.
I told the dealer I'd take up his challenge and re-do it myself, but I didn't want money when I did it under 6 hours. I told him I wanted a letter on a company letterhead, signed by him, advising that he has overcharged me either through incompetence of his mechanical staff or just for the sake of overcharging me. I also told him I'd pulled apart an Outlander 600 the previous night in my garage (which I did) and was sure it would take me less than 3 hours, let alone 5. I went into the detail asking him exactly what he'd done and why it took so long and he ended up saying forget the previous invoice and only charged me 2 hours labor.
It's a win in the end, but I wasted a lot of time avoiding being ripped off. Will certainly be doing all the services and repairs myself at home and only taking it there for warranty.
Hey guys, I picked up the bike this morning and sorted it out.
I told the dealer I'd take up his challenge and re-do it myself, but I didn't want money when I did it under 6 hours. I told him I wanted a letter on a company letterhead, signed by him, advising that he has overcharged me either through incompetence of his mechanical staff or just for the sake of overcharging me. I also told him I'd pulled apart an Outlander 600 the previous night in my garage (which I did) and was sure it would take me less than 3 hours, let alone 5. I went into the detail asking him exactly what he'd done and why it took so long and he ended up saying forget the previous invoice and only charged me 2 hours labor.
It's a win in the end, but I wasted a lot of time avoiding being ripped off. Will certainly be doing all the services and repairs myself at home and only taking it there for warranty.
Well I'm glad it worked out for you man. That was some crap. I've heard many stories similiar to yours. It's a shame we have to deal with crap like this. At any rate, I'm glad it worked out for you. On the plus, I bet they won't mess with you again like that.
After all that, I took the bike out for a ride on Sunday and when I brought it back home and drove it on the concrete to wash it I noticed the CV that had the bad boot was clicking when I was turning left/right at low speed (when it was under load I guess).
So I'm wondering how long it'll keep working whilst clicking before it grenades.
I've been searching the for a replacement CV but haven't found one so far. I refuse to go back to the dealer and he's pretty much the only one around where I live. I've asked another dealer but he's not real cluey on the bike and said he'll try to chase up a price for me and I'll fit it myself. Anyone got suggestions on where I could buy one online that would ship to Australia?
After all that, I took the bike out for a ride on Sunday and when I brought it back home and drove it on the concrete to wash it I noticed the CV that had the bad boot was clicking when I was turning left/right at low speed (when it was under load I guess).
So I'm wondering how long it'll keep working whilst clicking before it grenades.
I've been searching the for a replacement CV but haven't found one so far. I refuse to go back to the dealer and he's pretty much the only one around where I live. I've asked another dealer but he's not real cluey on the bike and said he'll try to chase up a price for me and I'll fit it myself. Anyone got suggestions on where I could buy one online that would ship to Australia?
sorry to hear that. i've bought replacement boots from CV RESTORATION LLC. and been pleased. i know he sells replacement axles at a very reasonable price. not sure about international shipping, though. if he doesn't, let me know and i'll try to help you out.
Danny is the guy I found on eBay. He sells a rebuild kit for it, but not the entire joint. The rest of his axles and joints are very well priced, so I'll definitely be using him if I ever need any of the other joints.
I'm not sure whether to get the rebuild kit, rebuilt it and hope for the best or just go the whole hog and replace the joint itself. Would have to pull the CV apart to inspect the bell for damage.
I think I've found the part I need on canamparthouse.com. It's showing at around US$180. If I don't have any luck elsewhere I might have to go with that.
Linear Mode
