ok, i finished this up saturday, then went to a bachelor party. i'm somewhat recovered now, so here we go. front plastic and side panels need removed first.
the stock setup is simply a small outlet that rises a couple inches, turns downward and terminates under the seat. i guess the idea is, there's enough pressure blowing out that water
shouldn't enter back in. i've heard otherwise, so that's why i'm running it up higher. secured by a 10mm bolt.
stock outlet
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001658.jpg
cvt with stock outlet removed
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001659.jpg
put a 2" rubber 90 degree fitting on the cvt outlet
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001660.jpg
place a short section of 2" abs (approx 3", but do what works for you) in the other end of the rubber 90 and add a second rubber 90 degree fitting, aiming the second one towards the shifter. try to keep the first rubber 90 as far away from the exhaust as possible. i wrapped it with thermo-tec heat shielding tape after taking the picture. try to finish the wrap in the area where the hose clamp will keep it from un-raveling as time passes.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001676.jpg
from that 90, i used some 2" inside diameter hose that i found at lowes. it's pretty thick and looks to have some type of mesh embedded in it. i thought about using a straight section of radiator hose, but napa wanted $11/ft and it had very little flex to it. the stuff from lowes was $3-$4/ft and i knew i'd need it to flex around the shifter linkage. here's a couple pics looking down, with the side panel back on.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001677.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001679.jpg
once again, you'll need to measure the hose to see what works for you - it was around two and a half feet for me. one of the problems with "stealth" snorkeling the cvt exhaust is the heat and belt dust that will be expelled. if left under the pod, your cvt intake and engine intake will be pulling in the warm air and dust. i've also read of the speedo display fogging up from the excessive heat. so, i ran it up as high as the intake, then turned it down to expel the exhaust down and out the side, away from everything. considering the stock location, even if i were in water deeper than the point where it terminates, the water level would still need to be above the highest point. i also feel the pressure would make it difficult for water to run back through the exhaust.
so i ran two hard 90s to bring it up, then forward. then a short section of abs (maybe 5") and another hard 90 to turn it down towards the ground.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001680.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001681.jpg
from there i ran about an 8" section of the flexible hose downwards. it had a bit of a bend in the end so it worked out nicely, directing the airflow out to the side.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001683.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001682.jpg
the entire cvt exhaust snorkel
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001684.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001685.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001686.jpg
in order to fit this under the pod, i had to make some changes up there. the bracket that the ecm is attached to was shortened. the part i removed (red arrows) was only being used to zip tie some of the wiring to it.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...M001664e-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001666.jpg
i removed the grey connector after taking this pic (dremeled the backside of the rivet)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001665.jpg
also need to remove a little plastic, leaving enough to retain it's structural integrity.
before
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001667.jpg
after
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001668.jpg
i also re-located the brake fluid reservoir. you can drop it through it's original location and route it back up through wherever you want to put it, without disconnecting the line.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001694.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001695.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IM001696.jpg
just like the intake, abs cement all abs to abs connections as well as the abs to flexible hose. silicone all of the rubber connections and secure with hose clamps. check and double check that all of the plastic fits before making it permanent. it is a little tricky to run the flexible hose past the shifter linkage without causing too much binding. there is a sweet spot, it just takes patience. i used a zip tie to keep the 2nd rubber elbow elevated a little, so it didn't interfere with the linkage going into the tranny. i also added some of the heat shielding tape to the flexible hose where it passes by the radiator hose, near the shifter.
i'll give this setup a good workout and post any issues that i run into. btw, i ordered frogzskin inserts for my airbox lid. i feel this is better than actually snorkeling the inlet tube - i'll just block it off and draw air in through the highest point in the lid. the frogzskin screens are made of a material that won't allow water or snow through. i talked to the owner of the company, who seems like a great guy, and he explained that there is roughly a 30% airflow restriction in the screen. i will be using two 1.5" (inside diameter) screens at first, an i have a third one ready if it seems to be less than the stock amount of airflow. will make a new post when they arrive and get some pics.
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