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Many Can-Am owners struggle with the CVT Shifter being stiff. I've even had dealers mention this and their solution is to rock the ATV while applying gentle pressure. This is frustrating and ususally ends up a bit embarrasing as we "hump" the quad to get it to shift. And even eventually leads to linkage (or worse) breaking.
Stray posted a fix for this problem in another thread. I thought it was the best thing since sliced bread, so I made this thread for his (a few others) fix. See the below posts and feel free to ask questions or add comments.
mmmm... beer! lol! anyway, yes, there is a solution for the shifting issue. i must give credit to 2 other guys ( from a different forum) who discovered this - rene1 and ozymax, from canada and australia, respectively. so, first off, regular maintenance of the clutch components is a must. this means regular cleaning and re-greasing the one-way with isoflex. some guys use other greases, but i find the isoflex works best. this will keep it shifting, but not smoothly. here's the smooth part: there are two bearings inside the one-way. brp uses NTN brand and for some reason, they are stiff as %#@&. we've replaced them with several different brands, all seem to be much easier to spin and therefore, the cvt shifts like butter! you won't believe the difference! i tried finding replacements locally with no luck and ended up ordering them from vxb.com, for around $30. bearing # is 6808 with 2 rubber seals, you need 2 bearings. the measurements are 40mm inside diameter, 52mm outside diameter and 7mm width. after replacement, you can shift with 2 fingers and not have to hump the quad, unless you want to!
remove the cvt cover with a T-30 torx bit or 10mm socket (some remove the left side floorboard, but it isn't necessary - just makes it a lil easier, you can carefully manipulate the cover around the secondary clutch). now, your primary and secondary clutches are exposed, as well as your belt. since i'm in there, i like to clean everything up and inspect. use a M8 x 1.25 bolt that's at least 3 1/2 - 4 inches long, to thread into the single threaded hole in the secondary clutch - this will spread the sheaves and allow the belt to be removed. i carry this bolt when i ride, along with the tools to remove the cvt cover (haven't forked over the $140 for a spare belt yet, but will soon) just in case i need to do some maintenance on the trails. ok, so the cover is off and belt is removed. now you need to remove the primary clutch by removing the bolt that runs through it's center into the crankshaft (i believe it's 17 or 19mm). to stop the clutch from turning, i wedge a 3/8" extension between one of the "fins" and the footpeg bracket. press in on the clutch housing when it's close to coming off so that it doesn't fly off and get damaged. behind it is the primary spring, a spring retainer cup and friction washer. the shiny thing left on the crank is the one-way. don't pull it off just yet! there are two holes in the crank that keep two spring-loaded pins in them. slowly slide the one way out, a little at a time, until you locate these. use your fingers to keep the 2 pins/springs from flying across the room and remove everything. inside the one-way are the two bearings. one side has a circular wire clip, remove that and both can be carefully tapped out with a drift. carefully press the new bearings into place and replace the wire clip. clean everything really well and apply isoflex to the springs/pins, inside the one-way where they slide and the friction washer. once you do this, it's much easier than my directions make it sound. in fact, here's a series of videos to give you a better understanding of the clutch components. btw, john cannon is a legend, but i don't agree with using an impact on some of the areas that he does. just my 2 cents...
when you put the belt back on, give the secondary clutch a few spins and it closes the sheaves and puts the tension back on the belt. also, be 100% sure to get the gasket back in correctly when re-installing the cvt cover. use your fingers to go around the bottom and check (this is why some people remove the floorboards, also). don't overtighten the bolts securing the housing.
Now that is quality entertainment! I will be ordering these bearings and install them when I put the Dalton Clutch Kit in.
On the video, I've watched it before and it is some good infromation there. I also agree he shouldn't have used an impact. But I'm not going to argue with him. I'll do mine my way.
I can not thank you enough for that fix. I like my quad, but feel rediculus "when I have to hump it" and have gotten angry enough to break it a few times.
The last several posts are worthy of their own thread. I will seperating them during my lunch break (if one of the others don't beat me to it). I'll link it here and probably many other places before it's said and done! Thanks again Stray.
Now that is quality entertainment! I will be ordering these bearings and install them when I put the Dalton Clutch Kit in.
On the video, I've watched it before and it is some good infromation there. I also agree he shouldn't have used an impact. But I'm not going to argue with him. I'll do mine my way.
I can not thank you enough for that fix. I like my quad, but feel rediculus "when I have to hump it" and have gotten angry enough to break it a few times.
The last several posts are worthy of their own thread. I will seperating them during my lunch break (if one of the others don't beat me to it). I'll link it here and probably many other places before it's said and done! Thanks again Stray.
no problem! i'll try to get a quick vid of how easy it shifts this afternoon. i still hump mine, just now i do it while flying off of jumps!
Just so I'm straight before I place my order; Stray can you tell me if the bearings at the link below are correct? I searched the part number but several bearings showed up.
Before you go replacing bearings, take the belt off. Does it shift better with the belt removed? If not, how is it going to shift better with new bearings in the one-way?
Can-Am Shifting Mod
lol! anyway, yes, there is a solution for the shifting issue. i must give credit to 2 other guys ( from a different forum) who discovered this - rene1 and ozymax, from canada and australia, respectively. so, first off, regular maintenance of the clutch components is a must. this means regular cleaning and re-greasing the one-way with isoflex. some guys use other greases, but i find the isoflex works best. this will keep it shifting, but not smoothly. here's the smooth part: there are two bearings inside the one-way. brp uses NTN brand and for some reason, they are stiff as %#@&. we've replaced them with several different brands, all seem to be much easier to spin and therefore, the cvt shifts like butter! you won't believe the difference! i tried finding replacements locally with no luck and ended up ordering them from vxb.com, for around $30. bearing # is 6808 with 2 rubber seals, you need 2 bearings. the measurements are 40mm inside diameter, 52mm outside diameter and 7mm width. after replacement, you can shift with 2 fingers and not have to hump the quad, unless you want to! 
Linear Mode
